From Chania to Heraklion: Rethymno and Knossos

After the first three days in the west of Crete, it's time to move on. I left Chania and went east along the northern coast of the island. The plan for the next few days was completely different: fewer beaches, more old towns, fortresses and history. The main points were Rethymno, Heraklion and Knossos.

Rethymno is a city where you want to stay.

The first stop was Rethymno. After Chania, the city seemed to me a little quieter, but no less interesting. I left the car and just went for a walk through the old center, where narrow streets suddenly lead to a small square, then to an old house with balconies, then to a cozy tavern.

I especially liked the combination of different eras. Nearby you can see Venetian buildings, Orthodox and Catholic churches, old Ottoman buildings, and the Fortezza fortress towers over the city. The historical center of Rethymno is considered one of the best preserved medieval cities in Greece.

I went up to Fortezza, where I have a good view of the city and the sea. The fortress was built by the Venetians at the end of the XVI century, and today you can safely walk along its territory between the walls and bastions. 

After the walk, I returned to the embankment and had lunch in a small tavern. On this day, for the first time, I felt that Crete was no longer just an island with beautiful beaches for me. Literally every city tells its own story here.

Heraklion is a completely different Crete

The next day, I continued my journey to Heraklion. Everything was much more lively here: more cars, people, shops and city noise. After the small streets of Rethymno, the contrast was noticeable.

I started my walk from the old port and reached the Kules fortress. It stands by the sea and once protected the entrance to the harbor. Then I just walked through the center, looking at the Venetian walls, squares and old buildings. Heraklion is interesting precisely because of the combination of modern life and traces of different eras.

Knossos - meeting with the Minoan civilization

But the main reason for stopping in Heraklion for me was not the city itself, but Knossos, which is very close by. The next day, I went there in the morning. Palaces, staircases, fragments of frescoes and intricate layout really bring to mind the legend of the Labyrinth and the Minotaur.

Knossos was the center of the Minoan civilization and was located about 5 kilometers south of modern Heraklion. An archaeological complex has existed on this site for many centuries, and the palace itself was huge for its time - its area was about 20,000 square meters. 

What surprised me the most was not even the number of preserved ruins, but the thought of how developed this city was thousands of years ago. There were complex water supply and sewerage systems, large public spaces, living quarters and workshops.

Then back to the sea

After Rethymno, Heraklion and Knossos, I realized that the second part of the trip turned out to be completely different. The first days were about the sea, beaches and Chania, but now there are fortresses, ancient palaces and the history of Crete.

But the last days of the trip were ahead, and I decided to end the trip the same way I started, by the water. The next point was to be Balos, one of the most famous beaches in Crete, and after that, my last evening on the island was waiting for me.